YOUR HEALTH

Taste bud Lament

The announcement Monday, January 24, 2011 that the Open Window Bakery is closing down (Toronto Metro p. 04) completes a series of recent culinary losses to the Jewish and broader Eastern European communities of the GTA and across Canada.

Some 2 years ago, Open Window discontinued manufacturing Hamishe farfel to the chagrin of many. Farfel, a pasta-like side dish is traditional in Eastern European Jewish and non-Jewish homes and Open Window’s Hamishe formula was spectacular. Sold through various local groceries and major chains, it was the Rolls Royce. While competing brands end up congealed -- like lumpy mashed potatoes, Hamishe – even if merely boiled in some water – produced the equivalent of the French fry – crisp, separate bits with a uniquely tangy taste.

About the same time, as a result of a fire at its Bathurst and Lawrence storefront and processing plant, the half-century old Perl’s Kosher Meats also disappeared – any hope of re-opening dashed just last month as the partially rebuilt property went up for sale.

Anyone who ever tasted Perl’s spicy salamis, their sweet coleslaw and cucumber salad and other delicatessen products knew the taste of heaven.

Now, to add to these losses comes the closure of Open Window Bakery itself, another Holocaust survivor enterprise ( like Perl’s) opened in Toronto soon after WW2. For years, Open Window and a small handful of local bakeries offered Eastern European rye bread, Pumpernickel (black bread), Challah (egg bread) and a host of related buns and, the ultimate – the bagel – when normal Toronto bakeries where the home of white toast.

As well, because of its Jewish ownership, Open Window followed Jewish tradition and did not use lard whatsoever. Nor did the company add whey powder and other dairy ingredients to its complete line up like standard, non-Jewish bakeries. Clearly marked ‘cheese buns’ and like signage ensured no confusion as required by traditional Jewish dietary rules.

I still remember from my childhood their mouth watering chocolate éclairs, butter tarts and great blueberry buns (chock full of berries enclosed in a thin, sweet dough). [Unfortunately, Open Window switched its blueberry bun formula long ago to a minimal filling and heavy dough shell. Only Bagel Plus (at Bathurst and Sheppard) has maintained the soft dough, blueberry filled recipe.]
So, now, in early 2011 a double era comes to an end. The Jewish community has lost 2 key holocaust survivor institutions that thrived for a half- century and filled mouths and bellies with unique delights.

Maybe someone in the food industry or a young entrepreneur or two will come forward and buy these great recipies; pick up the torches, so to speak.

My mouth and stomach can only hope!